Wallbreaker howto update

Quick update on the wallbreaker.  First, I was having trouble with the line sticking to the eyebolts using monofilament. Several people suggested I try spiderwire, so I picked some 20lb spiderwire twine, and it worked great.  Nice smooth motion, no need to apply oil (though there was probably some residual on the eyebolts).  I ran it for 9 hours Friday without a hitch, this is the verion built for the how-to using the A/C vent motor.

Thanks to building 3 kits today, and feedback from Erebus over at HauntForum, the how-to has been updated with several fixes and improvements, including the use of pulleys for the torso movement.  If you plan on using it I suggest you dowload the latest, which is always available on the top right of this blog.

Below is a quick video of the wallbreaker built with the how-to (minus the hands and foam skull), including the pulleys on the torso movement.

Ghost Reader 1

I plan on remaking the ghost reader prop for the Haunt Forum technical challenge. I cannot win a prize, and I don't expect to compete with the prop controllers and servos sure to be entered, but I thought it would be a lot of fun to extend on what can be done with a single small gear motor.

The original ghost reader can be seen below. It uses a Boris talk through skull hacked with a computer speaker, and a wood frame covered with chicken wire to support the cheese cloth. A wiper motor swings the porch swing.





I think I have the movement figured out. Using an A/C vent motor will give me 4 RPM, or 15 second cycles. The idea is to have the ghost look at the left page for 7.5 seconds, look at the right page for 7.5 seconds, look up and left while the left arm reaches over to the top right of the book for 7.5 seconds, and finally look right and up while the arm returns to its position at the upper left of the book for 7.5 seconds.

For the arm movement I am going to try attaching one end of the arm to a pivot, with a plate moving back and forth to give the arm the reaching motion. The figure below shows the arm movement from the top, and from the back. Notice how as the plate approaches the center, the distance from the pivot to the plate shortens, causing the end of the arm (the hand) to raise up some as it swings past the center. You may need to click on the image for the animation to work.



The second part of the movement was to figure out how to move the arm every other cycle. I came up with the contraption pictured below which will hopefully work.



More to come....

Howto is finally done!

I have posted the how-to for the wallbreaker mechnism. It took way longer than I thought it would, but I wanted to do it right.

Wallbreaker How To

I have done my best getting everything right, but if you find problems or have questions please post them here.

Now I can get onto my next project. I will rebuild either the leer ghost or the ghost reader for the next hauntproject contest. I cannot win, but it will still be fun to enter. I will update here with my progress.

Detailed directions on the way

I have been building a second 'HJ Wallbreaker' and have been creating detailed directions. They will come in 2 parts, part one will provide all of the dimensions to prepare all of the dowels and wood, and part 2 will describe how to assemble them. I am taking requests for kits that would provide all wood and dowels cut, marked and drilled, along with eye hooks and line needed to assemble a wall breaker mechanism. Let me know if you are interested.

If you have not already done so, please consider voting for me in the HauntForum 2010 $20 prop contest!

Click Here for Detailed How-to

This blog entry describes the construction of my wall breaker ghost. It is a cheese cloth ghost with 7 movements controlled by a single salvaged reindeer motor. The following videos show the ghost in action in UV and LED spot lights:





Moving Form
Form Construction. The moving form is centered on an A/C gear motor salvaged from an animated reindeer. The motor is mounted on a small piece of plywood using the screws that originally mounted a control arm to the motor. Then the plywood was framed with some scrap 2x4’s, this adds support and also provides a convenient place to attach the eye hooks that feed off the motor. EVERY line that comes off the motor FIRST goes through one of the eyes hooks in the 2x4s that encircle the motor, as seen below. I drilled several small holes around the edge of a 3/8” washer, filed off any sharp edges from the drilling, and then put the washer on the end of the control arm of the deer motor. The washer is held in place with a cotter pin (i.e. a piece of paper clip through the hole with the ends bent up).



Next step was to add all the moving parts. The key was to do it one movement at a time, using small eye hooks to guide fishing line back to the deer motor. Each movement was designed so that gravity would pull it one way, and the string attached to the motor will pull it the other way. All of the moving joints are simply scrap pieces of 2x4 with a hole drilled through it that will hold the dowel in place and allow it spin. All none moving joints are holes drilled in a 2x4 scrap, and the dowels glued in the hole. The whole process was very similar to building things with tinker toys (if you happen to remember those). When routing the fishing line from the motor to the movement, try to place eye hooks at points where you have a moving joint, this will keep the movement of one part from affecting another. For example, you will see a lot of eye hooks at the main torso joint, which the first moving point you get to from the motor.



Torso: this was the easiest movement, but it also takes most of the weight. I had to cut the original one out and redo it later in the project. Be careful that the moving dowel fits snuggly but still moves, I drilled it exactly 3/8” (for a 3/8” dowel), then used sand paper in the hole until the dowel fit just right. I also did not glue this dowel into place, making it easier to take apart if needed. A dowel coming out of the bottom of the torso joint controls the leaning in and out motion. In the picture below you will see where the lines comes from the motor, through an eye hook then back to an eye hook attached to this dowel. You will also see how I added a scrap 2x4 to support the torso joint at the bottom.



Head Up/Down: The second movement I built. I modified this later to add a turning head as seen in the image below, but the turning head did not change the way the head up/down works. The original head up/down is shown in the video below. A block mounted A line from the motor, through an eye hook at the torso joint will pull on the lever in the back, causing the head (which will eventually be mounted on the larger piece of 2x4 at the front of this movement) to go up. Notice how the head will only go down so far before it gets stopped by the shoulder (the next movement added)



The following video shows the torso lean and head up and down movement. You should note the single eye hook on the side of the torso joint, the guides the line for the head up/down.



Shoulders: Next I mounted the shoulders and upper arms. The supports for the shoulders (collar bones?) come off each side of the block at the top of the torso. The end of the collar bones have a block glued to them that holds a dowel that points down and forward from the shoulder. A line that is routed from the motor, through eyehooks at the torso joint, head joint, shoulder joint, then through this control arm will pull the upper arm up when the line tightens.



This video shows the form with the shoulder movement added. You start to notice the movement getting a little jerky, this is the first sign the first torso joint I made was too lose. The blocks half way along the collar bones are just temporary repairs as I adjusted the angle of the control arm that pulls the upper arms up. Once I had this right I replace with new dowels. One note, it is very simple to modify this type of form construction, simply cut off the old dowel flush with the block, re-drill the hole you want then remount the dowel.




Lower Arms: The lower arms are similar to the upper arms; a block is added to the end of the upper arm with a control arm that will hold a line that raises the lower arm when tightened. The cardboard you see is from a later step where I used card board to cover some of the dowels before applying the black cloth.



The following video shows the form with the lower arms added.



Head Turning.

Later in the build when I was ready to add black cloth to the forms, it was suggested that I make the head turn. I barely had enough in the budget to do this. So I did. I replaced the block that held the ‘neck’ with a slightly large piece I could drill a 3/8” hole in. The ‘neck’ sits in this hole, held in place by a 3/8 washer. A small hole was drilled in the dowel for a piece of paper clip to act as another kotter pin to hold the washer in place. Then an inverted T was added under the neck, and new eyebolts and line added that would move the head back and forth. This was the most complicated movement to add, requiring several tried and eye bolts to get it right.



A video later shows the head turning back and forth.

Head and Hands.

The head form was made with tape and newspaper. I initially made the head with a very large chin which I later cut off. Once the form was complete I used black cloth dipped in an elmer’s glue and water mix to ‘mache’ the head. As I have described earlier I find this technique and excellent way to build forms for cheese cloth ghosts. Once the cloth had dried, I cut up and removed the news paper from inside, then added a couple of cardboard braces. Once I had a good idea of my budget, I found I had enough to add some hot glue led eyes. I made the eyes in the form deep, cut a small hole in the back of them, and then hot glued a pair of green ultra bright LEDs so the light would shoot out of the eyes. I then filled the eye sockets with hot glue. It took 1 small stick to do the whole thing. A few feet of cheap telephone wire was run from the eyes to a 2 AA battery holder I could attach to the base. Instant glowing green eyes!

The hands were formed out with cardboard, newspaper and tape, and then covered in black cloth/Elmer’s glue/water. I used my own hands for dimensions, making the fingers longer. I added a small notch at the end of the arms, and a hole at the base of each hand. The hands hang freely from the ends of the arms.





The following video shows the ghost in action with the head and hands added. It also has the initial forms for the arms and shoulders.



Black cloth and cheese cloth.

I made some simple cardboard form that could be attached to the dowels for the arms, back and chest area. I learned when making the Leer ghost that something needed to be added to the dowels where the cheese cloth would be draped, so this is my first attempt at using black cloth mache to do so. I added black cloth/Elmer’s glue/water to these forms. Once they were dried I put everything back together and trimmed where necessary so the pieces would not rub together.








Next I added the cheese cloth. The cheese cloth was soaked in ½ cup Purex laundry soap and water, the wrung out and hung to dry. This was done working with small pieces on the head and hands (about 3” square works best). I dumped half a bottle of Stiffen in a tuperwear container and thinned it a little with water. The cheese cloth is applied by dipping it in the Stiffen, squeezing out the excess, the carefully spreading it the piece back out and placing on the black cloth form. This causes all sorts of interesting patterns in the cheese cloth. I kept a container of water I could dip my fingers in occasionally when they got too sticky. For the larger forms I would use some 8” by 8” pieces of cheese cloth first, then follow up with the smaller 3” square pieces. This technique is described in past posts on this blog.

Next I added some cardboard to the back the form so the cheese cloth would not be straight and square where it appears to attach to the wall. I lightly spray painted the form with flat black spray paint. I had to restring everything after paint got on the fishing line. The final step was to drape the remaining cheese cloth over the form completing the appearance of a ghost.

Another Ghost Head

Just finished the latest ghost head. For this one I built a form out of black cloth soaked in elmers glue and water, using a k-mart skull for the head and newspaper/packing tape for the bust. The great thing about this is that the result is pitch black in the black light, and even in the visible light it is almost impossible to see. Then I used the cloth stiffener and cheese cloth by dipping small pieces in the stiffener and then placing on the form. A small brush helps position the cheese cloth, and I tried to leave some cracks and voids, and allow the cheese cloth to role up some when placing it.




As you can see above, even in visible light you can barely make out the black cloth form.



It even looks decent in normal light.





In black light all of the irregularities really stand out.

How to build a cheese cloth ghost sculpt.

Materials:

• Go by Michaels and pick up some Stiffy( http://www.plaidonline.com/productDetail.asp?itemID=1550 ).
• I get cheese cloth in the package at WallMart or Home Depot.
• RIT brightner and whitener (http://www.ritdye.com/Fabric+Treatments.28.51.7.48.lasso?-session=thisSession:442A35C21b7e1339E7qQKg18D56F). I find mine at Publix.
• Something to use as a form for the head; I use the plastic skulls that were available at Kmart last year.
• Release agent, I use motor oil.
• 3/8” and 1/8” wooden dowels, scrap wood
• Flat black spray paint.
• Newspaper and duct tape.
  
  I can provide the basic directions I follow, a lot of the technique is in how you form the cheese cloth as you apply the Stiffy. I suggest you experiment with different techniques and find what works for you. For example you can dip the cheese cloth in the Stiffy, wring it out then apply. You can also place the cheese cloth then paint the stiffy on with a brush.
  
  Mix the RIT in some water, soak the cheese cloth for a while, then remove and let dry.
  
  Rub some motor oil on the skull, making sure to remove any excess. Use the Stiffy and cheese cloth to cast the skull. I will cast the front of the skull, let that dry and remove it. Then I will cast the rear of the skull so it will overlap the front section some. Once both are finished I glue them together with Elmer’s glue.
  
  Build a frame with the wooden dowels that will support the skull at the top, sides, back, nose and jaw. Ignore the wire in the frame picture below, that was an idea that did not work.

If you want to build a bust, form some shoulders dowels, newspaper and duct tape. Paint it flat black. When the frame is done, form the neck and shoulders with more Stiffy and cheese cloth.

Then attach the head to the frame with elmer’s glue. I use black cardboard behind the eyes and nose so they will be black in the UV light.